Troubleshooting Your AR Build
At
this point I have completed hundreds of AR builds from standard .223,
5.56 Nato, .223 Wylde, 5.45x39, 9mm, 10mm, and even a few in the 308 and 7.62x51 chambers. I
will say none have gone together perfectly however a few tips and tricks
along the way have helped me get a bit smarter with each build.
Experience does breed success and thus the reason I generally believe a defensive
firearm you will bet your life on should be built by a professional.
Following are a number of tips and tricks which in sum should resolve or
prevent the vast majority of AR format functioning issues.
UNDERSTANDING THE ZEN STATE OF AR FUNCTIONING
The
AR format is by its nature a much more complex machine with more design
similarities to an engine than a bolt action rifle. The gas pressure
operated system can be a bit finicky and can also be the main cause of
problems. Including myself, many an expert has professed the
reliability improvements of heavy buffer springs, carriers, and buffers,
however now with more experience, I have seen that these are just band
aid solutions to an over-gassed or poorly designed gas system or poorly tuned rifle. Other
times, problem resolution can be as simple as just swapping out a
magazine or part, so lets take a look at some best practices to avoid
problems in the first place.
A lot happens as the trigger is pulled, the hammer drops, hits the firing pin which sets off the primer and charge. The pressure in the cartridge pushes the bullet down the barrel and after the bullet passes the gas port, gas is leached off and blown back into the bolt via the gas block, gas tube, and gas key on the carrier. Pressure increases and pushes on the gas seals in the bolt which unlocks the bolt and cycles the action. A lot can go wrong in that entire process.
Always
keep in mind that the AR15 was designed to run with a 20” barrel with a
rifle length gas system and full rifle length buffer tube, spring and
longer & heavier buffer. By moving to a shorter carbine gas system
and buffer tube assembly we are not exactly helping improve performance,
recoil, or reliability but instead making it harder for the system actually do its job in a shorter overall system. The shorter the overall rifle system, the harder it is to tune for reliable operation.
DIRECT IMPINGEMENT SYSTEM VS. PISTON
For
a new AR builder, I would stay away from piston systems until you have some build experience or
purchase a complete working upper or complete factory rifle. Superlative Arms makes incredible system that is amazingly reliable, however for the less experienced builder a gas impingement system. For the
scope of this article, I will focus on standard AR15 style direct
Impingement gas system rifles as they are far more popular for the
masses.
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A typical builders kit without a stripped lower
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GAS ISSUES
One of the most common causes of
problems on the AR format are those related to the gas system. Too much
gas ends up battering both you and shortening component life, but too
little affects functional reliability with a rifle that sometimes cycles.
Too Much Gas
- An overgassed/high gas pressure driven system is generally balanced
out by heavier components at the breech end to slow the cycling down.
The result is that we upgrade from a standard buffer to a heavy “H”
marked buffer, heavier “H2”, and even very heavy “H3” buffers and
marginally heavier M16 bolt carriers. There are even heavy specialty buffer springs available. All we have done is increase the
reciprocating mass to the point where the gun cycles properly and less
violently. Sure the heavier components balance things out, however too
much hot gas means more overall stress on all components and more dirty
hot gas in the action which equates to a hotter and dirtier gun; not to
mention an overall heavier gun in the process.
Cause - The
cause is usually an oversized barrel gas port diameter due to a “better
safe than sorry” manufacturing model of most barrel companies. The
thought process is that too much gas pressure will always function, to
little could cause functioning issues with certain components.
Solution
- A solution is the above heavier BCG, buffer spring, and/or buffer,
however the best solution is to control the gas pressure in the first place with an
adjustable gas block such as those from Superlative Arms. I stand by the comment that this is the single
best upgrade you can make to an AR15. Recoil, muzzle rise, component
wear, and filth all go down and the rifle runs a little cooler and
cleaner. Once you are able to control the gas pressure, you can do some
really cool things like further reduce gas pressure when using a
lightweight BCG from YM or JP Rifles or others with a standard buffer all without
affecting reliability.
Adjustable gas block are the key is to bring
things in balance. See my Adjustable Gas block article here for tuning
how-to. Basically keep reducing gas pressure with your lightest load
until the bolt does not lock back and then increase the pressure setting
by a quarter turn. The need for a heavy bolt carrier is instantly myth
busted once your are able to adjust the gas pressure and balance the
system.
Too Little Gas - This will cause short stroking, double feeds, failures to feed/extract/lock-back, and stovepipes.
Cause
- System diagnosed as under-gased are usually the result of improper
assembly, however binding components, too heavy of carriers, springs, or
buffers or other design issues can exaggerate or imitate an under-gased
system. There are certainly fixes which do overcome many design or
functional issues caused when fielded, however addressing the root cause
is the best route to a durably reliable AR.
Solution
- In almost all cases the gas block is not pushing full pressure. Usually the gas block is not aligned to the gas port
in the barrel or has been mounted crocked. Sometimes it is canted or has moved from gas pressure and/or has not been secured properly. In some situations I have seen out of spec gas blocks which can leak pressure.
Usually the perfect gas block placement is not slammed against the turned
edge on the barrel, but sometimes it is. Drawing a center-line down the barrel with a pencil can help with alignment. Disassembly and reassembly with a set of calipers
to measure where the hole is on the barrel in relation to the hole on
the gas block. Remember usually the rearward most retainer screw on the
gas block aligns with the inside hole in the gas block. Worse case I eyeball the alignment based on holding the gas block next to the barrel and lining up the barrel and gas block ports. One trick during
assembly is to install the gas block upside down before installing the
gas tube to find the exact positioning of the gas block from the
shoulder on the barrel.
BOLT CARRIER PROBLEMS
Smooth Movement - An
easy quick check after each cleaning is recommended. Occasionally you
will have a BCG that binds for one reason or another which definitely
affects functioning. Point your unloaded AR upper skyway and bounce the
bolt up and down in the receiver a couple time to simulate cycling. This
simple little test will tell you if something is binding. Rarely you
might have an out of spec carrier, or loose gas key (seen this more than you would think), but it could also
be some junk or a partial brass case stuck in the receiver. Clean it
out and replace parts as required.
Bad Seals/Rings - Rarely
an issue. Those little rings on the bolt do wear out eventually or can
become aligned in such a way that they will leak. Assure all the cuts
are not aligned and/or replace as necessary. You should be able to hold the BCG vertical by the bolt and the tension of the rings should not allow the bolt to extend under the weight of the carrier.
Ejector Tension - Generally
a problem that will have even the experienced guys in the crowd
throwing their hands in the air and selling off a great gun. Brass
should eject at about 2-3 o’clock and about three feet from the side of
the gun. If they are hurling 10+ feet away and you start to have
feeding/functioning/ejection issues about halfway through the mag, then
an over-tensioned ejector is probably the issue. The military went to a
higher-tension/stronger spring to improve full-auto fire functioning
with M16 carriers, however in most cases too strong of an ejector spring
will not allow a round to properly feed on the bolt face and/or from a
timing perspective cause the cases to attempt to eject before they clear
the port. The result more often than not are double feeds or failures
to fully or partially eject. Most people think they need a stronger
spring if they see this and it is usually quite the opposite.
Solution
- If the ejector cannot be pressed in slightly with the fingernail into
the bolt, then it is probably too tight. Another test is to remove the
bolt and place an empty case in the extractor lip and lever it down on
to the ejector; in some cases I have seen that the ejector is so strong
that the extractor cannot hold the brass in place. Remove the spring and
either grind it down or swap to a shorter ejector spring or just replace the entire bolt if you are lazy. I know the
DPMS 308’s have two different ejectors; one version puts way too much
tension on the same spring length. The general rule is that if you
cannot re-install the ejector without using a tool to push it in, then
it is too strong.
Loose/Leaky Gas Key
- More and more an issue with crappy import carriers hitting the market. Gas Keys do come loose rarely on quality carriers. Inspect the carrier
end-to-end during cleaning. If it is loose, use permanent Loc-tite
(Permatex gasket sealer is Mil-Spec) and tighten it back down.
Bolt Bounce -
This is a situation where the bolt bounces slightly after it chambers a
round because the bolt is moving too fast due to excessive gas pressure
and/or to strong of a buffer spring. Without super high speed video
equipment, this almost impossible to witness with the naked eye, however
it can occasionally be experienced during really fast shooting. This
is experienced in the form of a failure to fire with the hammer
dropping. Basically it is a timing issue when the bolt is bouncing out
of battery at the moment the hammer drops and the firing pin hits air or
a partially chambered round. If you are seeing bulged cases at the
bases or nice heavy primer strikes on the primers and then a light
strike and failure to fire during high rate firing, then you may have a
bolt bounce issue. The solution is to move to a heavier carrier or
buffer or reduce the buffer spring tension or gas pressure level with an
adjustable gas block. Generally the adjustable gas block is the easiest
and least expensive solution. The faster the bolt goes back the faster it wants to return.
Bolt Not Locking Back
- Could be a lot of things. Usually it is just a bad magazine spring that is not pushing with enough pressure to engage the bolt stop. I have also had some issues with Strike Industries and some other aftermarket bolt catches. I forget who offered at one time a heavy duty bolt release spring, but that is just idiotic and would then need to compete with the magazine spring tension to function correctly.
Check the gas block alignment and assure there are no gas tube
obstructions. Stick the straw of a WD-40 can down the gastube and if it
comes out the barrel roughly the same rate as your are spraying it then
you are OK in most cases. What to watch for is WD-40 sprayed in one end
and it dripping slowly out the other. If so check the alignment and gas
tube.
For the most part, AR15s, especially carbines are seriously over
gased to the point most will run even if half the tube or port is
covered. The most common problem is that the gas block is not even close
to being properly aligned with the barrel's gas port. A builder could also have the rear vent hole sealed on the back of the buffer tube creating a weird pressure situation with some buffers.
A2 builds I have seen this and even done it myself where I installed a longer 308 buffer and buffer spring by mistake - on a AR15 build which will physically not allow the bolt to lock back. Similarly installing a rifle length buffer
and/or spring in a carbine or an H2 or H3 buffer which can retard the
bolt so much that it cannot fully cycle or lock back. See the buffer
weights and measures data below to the right buffer components.
One
part which has given me problems is actually the bolt catch. I have
installed and tossed a couple out-of-spec loose bolt catches including fancy aftermarket versions. If the
bolt catch is not decently tight fore and aft, I have had issues with them not
catching a bolt on occasion.
POST ASSEMBLY INSPECTION
This
may seem like an obvious step, however I have caught more issues in
this step than any other just with close examination of an empty
unloaded AR all under the assumption that “Stuff works loose.”
Assure
the flash-hider, buffer tube castle nut are both tight and secured with
Loc-Tite. Are all the pins and detent present, does the trigger
function correctly even when holding the trigger down and hand cycling
the bolt to imitate the next round cycling? When you point the muzzle
skyware on a separated upper receiver, does the bolt float effortlessly
without bind as you bouncing it up and down into the chamber by hand?
SELECTING PARTS
Typically
builders get all emotional about what they want based on whatever their
buddy or the latest expert recommended, however the reality is that
most of the components do not increase reliability, but some do such as
an adjustable gas block. Stick with Mil-Spec components if you are
focused on reliability as high tolerance “3-Gun” performance parts may
throw off the operational balance of an AR without a little
tuning/tweaking.
In
general every upper or lower receiver I have ever tested has functioned
perfectly. The upper or lower receivers have never been a root cause of
any issue I have ever experienced, nor the buffer tube, gas tube, stock
parts kit, or the furniture, so choose what you like.I will note that I have had friends buy some real warped uppers that still even worked well.
Barrels
for the most part have not delivered issues themselves regardless of
chambering or the finish of the feed ramps, however gas port diameters
do vary which can create gas pressure issues. From my experience,
pressure problems related to the barrel and gas block have been
responsible for well over 95% of my functional issues. The other 5% of
issues can usually be tracked to the buffer spring and buffer rates and
weights.
STANDARD BUFFER & SPRINGS WEIGHTS & MEASURES (all values approximate)
AR15 RIfle - Buffer 5.2oz, 5.905” - Spring 44 coils, uncompressed 12.75”
AR15 Carbine - Buffer 3.0oz, 3.25” - Spring 39 coils, uncompressed 11.25”
AR10 Rifle - Buffer 5.4oz, 5.215” - Spring 34 coils, uncompressed 13.75”
AR10 Carbine - Buffer 5.4oz, 3.26” - Spring 34 coils, uncompressed 13.75”
DPMS 308 Rifle - Buffer 5.3oz, 5.31” - Spring 39 coils, uncompressed 12.75”
DPMS 308 Carbine - Buffer 3.4oz, 2.48” - Spring 27 coils, uncompressed 11.5”
AR15 Carbine Buffer Weights - STD 3.0oz, H 3.8oz, H2 4.6oz, H3 5.4oz
Note
- Super special extra heavy buffers (H2, H3) and springs have caused me
nothing but problems with anything but full power Nato spec ammo.
FEEDING ISSUES
80% of the time it is ammo or magazine related. If
you do have issues, try swapping not only the magazine, but hte
magazine brand and also ammo. A lot of times you have a magazine that is
ready to retire or crappy ammo causing the issues. As noted before, it likely is due to overgased pressure, improper buffer weight or spring, or a extra power ejector. Sometimes the barrel extension and Receiver Feedramps don't match up well - a little dremel polishing (none abrasive) goes a very long way to smooth things out.
THE STANDARD DIRECT IMPINGEMENT GAS LENGTHS
A
general formula for barrel/gas system configuration is: sub-16” barrels
should have carbine gas systems, 16”-18” barrels with Mid-Length gas
systems, and 18”+ barrels with rifle length systems. Obviously there is
some leeway, but a 20” barrel with a carbine system will probably be way
over gassed and a 16” barrel with a rifle length system will generally
have some under-gassed cycling issues. Ballistic Advantage and Feddersen based barrels do offer tuned longer gas systems, however with some heavier carriers or higher power triggers, I have had issues.
Even
with a properly designed system an adjustable gas block will help you
fine tune the system. Once properly tuned, it will deliver you a
stunningly near recoilless and reliable shooting rifle all without
adding weight to your action or without changing any other components.
GRIP/DETENT SPRING
Grip
Spring & Detent - Almost every AR owner at some point swaps their
grip, however nearly every grip swap virgin usually also ends up on all
fours looking for the grip spring and detent after pulling off the grip.
… and then ends up having a crunchy sounding selector when reinstalled.
It should be noted that the grip itself partially holds the spring for
the selector switch and the other half of the spring extends up into
the selector detent hole pressing against the detent. Watch how it comes
apart and prevent either crushing the spring during install or the
dreaded boing of the spring across the room.
MAGAZINES
Generally
I have not had any problems with USA made Surefeed steel, stainless, or aluminum
magazines or with MFT Mission First and Magpul’s polymer mags. Other mags work
well also, however I would note caution as there has been a flood of
really crappy mags hit the market which I personally would run from.
I had a HUGE issue with literally a case of the shown Troy mag feed lips expanding to the point of dumping rounds. European mags are less forgiving than US mags as they adhere to a very
tight tolerance level. Most 30-round Euro mags, such as E-Lander, are
designed for a standard 28-round military spec magazine load to assure
positive reloads on a closed bolt.
As
any military trained person will tell you they only load
28-rounds in a 30-round mag just to assure positive reloads. USA mags in
general are designed around the “US consumer” expectations to load a
full 30-rounds, however the Euro mags are not. Also euro spec AR15
receivers are less sloppy than to what many US manufacturers adhere to,
which in the end means that a Euro mag may be a bit too tight to
properly cycle. Be safe and load 28 and you will have far less issues
overall with any mag you use.
First
and second generation DPMS 308 factory mags are specifically
problematic and contribute greatly to feeding and functioning issues.
With a few modificaions they can work fine, however in general, I have
swapped to Magpul LR-20 magazines which have resolved a great number of
308 related functioning issues.
The net is don't by crappy magazines. Buy MFT, Magpul, Lancer, or Surefeed.
AMMO
Some
ammo is shit and will cause feeding and functioning issues.
Specifically, I have tested and proven to myself that Herter’s 62gr .223
Remington rounds are underpowered. If you want to have a bunch of jams,
but this stuff. In most other cases, I have not had any significant
issues with any other ammo. My favorite plinking/fun ammo has become the American Eagle 55gr and Hornady Steel case, Frontier, and Black ammo.
FINAL THOUGHTS
If you are building your first rifle build it based on standard everything. If it was me I would buy an Aero Precision Builder or Ballistic Advantage set, perhaps one of the monthly limited edition cerakoted sets, a Aero parts kit, AP or BA barrel and start building. Really for the price, I probably would just buy a complete upper from Aero or BA. Faxon also makes great problem-free barrels. My hope is this prevents some great ARs from being sold or pushed to the back of the safe.
Of course you will need parts and there is no place better to buy than at Brownells.com
The NiBx Browning A5 12 Gauge - Resurrecting a Legend - Part 2
For this upgrade phase, I decided to update the front sight bead to a high viz model and update the steel and metal finishes to update the looks and improve durability for another 100-years and do a little light cleanup on the furniture. THe Part 3 final build tackles the stock finish and transforms it again into something new.
The Marbles Expert Shotgun Red Fiber optic sight threaded right into my Lyman Adjustable choke and gives me something to stare at and mentally reflect on, after I miss all the clays that were just thrown for me. I know some are not big fans of even using the front bead, however I have found that if you are shooting at really close static clay pigeons, such is the case in many competitions these days, it can be a handy reference point. For under $10 it was a worthwhile investment and for me, it improved my hit ratio a bit.
Now that I was considering the WMD NiB-X coating, I stared at the uber ugly corn cob Lyman adjustable choke and then stared at it some more. I must have gone back and forth at least a dozen times on whether to convert to screw in chokes after completing Part 1 of the updates going so far as to break out the torch only to put it away before desoldering the choke. The question loomed on whether I should convert over to screw in tubes. 
The biggest update to looks, durability, operation, and reliability was definitely sending almost all the metal parts off to WMD Guns for their NiB-X coating. Actually, the only metal parts that did not get coated were the small pins, screws, and the bolt assembly simply because I could not get it fully disassembled which is required for the treatment. 
The WMD Guns NiB-X finish is roughly similar to NP3 or Nickel-Boron (Ni-Bo) finishes, however WMD’s proprietary Nickel-Boron finish (includes Teflon) adds a huge amount of lubricity and ups the durability as well. 
For this resurrection of a firearm nearly a century old, the silver/grey finish was a huge update to looks, however the WMD treatment does so much more. NiB-X finish that will resist scuffs, wear, and moisture, minimize cleaning and lube requirements, and give your action a noticeably smoother feel…permanently. 
The net result of the treatment was a gorgeous factory new looking Browning A5 which anyone could swear just rolled out of a high tech 1920’s factory in Belgium. The finish is amazing, eye-catching and also very very slick. I would say that the newly treated parts are nearly twice as slick as they were previously and tuning of extra-light, medium, and heavy loads with the friction ring juggle was far less sensitive and required less lube for reliable operation. All around much more than just a pretty finish upgrade.
I have run around five boxes of 2 3/4" shells through the updated WMD coated A5 and it seems to be much faster cycling after the NiB-X treatment than before and is certainly exponentially smoother cycling. The coating of the Lyman variable choke also seems to have tightened my patterns a abit as well; perhaps because it smoothed and slicked up the choke. 
The WMD NiB-X finish is top notch and consistent even among aluminum and steel parts and my little fiber optic Marbles sight has really helped my clay busting game. The only update that is left which needs addressing are the worn stocks which either need a finish refresh or new stocks completely - Stay tuned.
